Paris Day 1

Today we travel to Paris from Monaco by train.

By good management (or luck) our hotel was a short walk to the train and it was 9:15 train so very convenient. Monaco has a massive train station with walking tunnels snaking out all over town. There is also one SNCF track which meant we had no change needed to Paris.

Train trip was great, sunny day with excellent  scenery though I watched Zero Dark Thirty on my new MacBook Air. Anyway the 6 hour rip felt like nothing.

Arrived a bit late as train had problem en route but very happy with Barbies choice of hotel, Bellchasse which is right next to Musee D”orsay . Hotel done in Christian Lacroix theme which is really out there.

Arvo just spent acclimatising to Paris and I found a restaurant by luck hat matched the highly recommended list - called Latiere - small, family affair which French/Japanase cuisine - a Cote Rhone red from Vaucluse was incredible. They do really refreshing entrees - watermelon , mint, goats cheese and pine nuts with oil - zoo good. Barbie hankered for beef and she had boef and pommes de terre.

I forgot - we squeezed in a visit to Rodins Garden which was just up the road.

Rodins Garden - green hydrangias

Recognise him?

Monaco last day

I am writing this 3 days late so my it may not sound as exciting as it really was at the time.  After yesterdays big day at Cap Ferrat we decided just to have a quiet day in Monaco. As I have mentioned, I lived here in the early 80's and I had a recollection of a quiet village like area.

I remember the grand prix was on and I just wandered up to Cafe de Paris, grabbed a seat and watched part of the race. Now, the Cafe de Paris is huge, expanded sideways, backways and seems to have a casino below it as well. The main casino has also expanded to the left and is triple its original size. Up the hill next to the Hotel de Paris there was a movie theatre and offices - now I think the movie place is still there alongside every major prestige brand of clothes. The streets are packed with Bentlys being the Toyota of Monaco.

The rest of town must have been a property developers dream, there are huge blocks of apartments with a whole new little town called Fonteville added (also tax free and part of Monaco).

That said, it is still a pretty town and we walked way up the top behind it (yep, really steep) and enjoyed looking at the quaint apartments and villas dug into rock. There are some electic stairs and lifts but never where you happen to be.

When we got back down to the harbour we booked a small boat trip to see monaco from the water and while we had a hour to wait sat down for drinks. Cool place on the water with a signer guitarist who clearly didn't speak english but tried playing many rock classics. Satisfaction, Hotel California and Stairway to Heaven were all very strange when sung phonetically. Barbie had a Melon Granita which I guess is a fancy word for a slushy.

Boat trip was great, we got closer to the over the top mega boats and got a better perspective of town.

Had a great dinner near hotel at Il Terraso which was a napoli restaurant , super fresh ingredients and great wine. Entree was simple but so  good - buffalo mozzarello, tomatos, basil and oil..

Monaco from above

Singer who can't sing

Barbie and slushie

On the Fonteville side of Monaco - I am sure this area must have been formed by a huge earthquake.

Apartments..

Monaco more pictures

Here are more pics from Monaco and Cap Ferrat and Ville Franche

Cap ferrat - 360 degree view villa

Note the helicopter

Lots of houses had hand painted designs

St Jen Cap Ferrat walk

Cool plant

View of Ville Franche sur mer

Another view - see aquaduct

My old apartment block - Casabianca - blvd du Larvotto

Another little boat

Saint Jean Cap Ferrat

After Cannes , we got to Monaco after a killer traffic jam - now I was wondering just how smart I was for swapping train for car, oh well..
Finally arrived and of course roadwork blocked the road to our hotel and was the part cause for the traffic into Monaco. All fine and we ditched car and checked into Novotel which somehow got raving reviews from Trip advisor. We are on top floor with great mountain views . People forget that Monaco is not just famous for tax dodging and the Casino, it is drop dead gorgeous too.

I lived here for a period in 1982 and so our first walk was down to my old apartment block at blvd di Larvottotto opposite the man made Larvotto beach. I am sure then number of apartments has multiplied by 100 and the tourists many more as my memories were of a quaint town and not one of hoards of people. So, like Byron Bay and Bali, 30 years reaps plenty of change.

It is still very beautiful with the cliffs and grand buildings as well as quaint shops and amazing boats and cars.

Being tired we found Gourmet express and had really great pizza and pasta + wine in the hotel room.

In the moring we set of on my planned excursion to Saint Jean cap Ferrat. This really was a treat, Cap Ferrat being a peninsula filled with huge villas and fantastic coastline. Drive was great, no traffic and we found a good parking spot. A wander around the lovely port where we saw original Riva boats, regular fishing boats and of course the billionares mini ships dotted within the harbour.

We were quick to notice Russian voices and restaurant signs in Russion - this must be where the oligarchs hide their cash.

We found the start of the 8km perimeter track (thanks Barbie) and had a fantastic walk around the whole peninsular. The limestone (I think it is limestone) around the coast plus the deep blue water make you think you are in paradise (I think we are). Along route we could see the huge (ridiculously) mansions and villas with equally amazing gardens. I am thinking lots of funny money here. At the end we found a beach Plage passable - with cafe where Barbie had coffee and I swam out into the harbour opposite Ville Franche sur mer, another favourite place.

Finished the day with a look at the Rothchild estate which was built early last century - looks more like a palace than anything else. See pics

cap ferrat walk

plage passable

nice pool

2 Teslas being charged

Me and my Riva

Old limestone (the rocks)

Aix to Monaco

Thinking myself very smart, we drove to train station, dropped off car, then collected new one immediately. I must say Europcar a really good to deal with, absolutely no dramas and web site is really quick and intuitive. This car is a Citroen C3, a step up from the Fiat Panda. It is a diesel and feels much more powerful and stable.

Easy drive (though very fast, always 130 to 150) to turnoff to Cannes where we wanted to have a look see. This seemed a small beach town 30 years ago, though I came by train. This time the town seemed massive and with massive traffic snarls. Got to beach, worth the trip but can't say I'd be rushing back - it is incredibly crowded.

Cannes on an open area of beach

The old art - not Barbie

The more usual beach area..

Red carpet..

I am still deciding which colour

Renault min car

Aix on Sunday

Started late today - huge buffet again. I do go on about it, but can't get over how good the fresh food (grapefruit, strawberries, oranges etc) are. I also love the yoghurts particularly the ones in glass bottles - we have even had some in a type of ceramic jar.

Even though breakfast was great, we sort of regretted eating so much when we chanced upon the most fabulous food markets - there seems to be markets every day here - it must have been the serious foodies part of town as the square was surrounded by cool food shops with every weird condiment, mustard or gadget you could dream of.

A small selection of the cheeses

spices

A salt a spice combo - not sure the contents!!!

We continued on our long walk of discovery and chanced upon the most amazing church - Cathedral Saint Sauveur - which dates back to 5th century at least. It's been added to many times but they have stripped away sections revealing early mosaics and frescos etc.

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A section where they have revealed early drawings


It is now Wednesday and I am just trying to remember what we did for the rest of Sunday. We did have a booking to see Paul Cezannes  studio which was a 40 min walk out of town. In his day, this was considered the country but a combination of an expanded Aix and better roads meant it was actually not far at all. Studio has been preserved pretty much intact thanks to various benefactors over the years. It was designed by Cezanne with huge windows facing north for the light, a narrow but very high slot for passing out his huge canvasses and still has many of the items such as jars from his original still drawings.
More wandering around town before dinner - I had squid ink tagliatelle fruit de mer - totally different to Aus, all fresh shellfish and other seafoods. Barbie had Pizza trois fromage , also really good. Plus the regulation Kir and a shared 500ml Rose..

We had a train booked for Monaco for Monday but since I quite enjoy driving in France, decided to try cancelling train and hiring car instead. All done at 10pm, it worked a breeze.

Barbie at Aquus Sextius - the roman baths in Aix (sextius being a roman general)

Aix en Provence, Cezanne and food

Still coughing but slowly feeling better.
Huge breakfast range at this hotel, fresh food is amazingly tasty, must be all that extra care they can afford due to huge euro subsidies.

We have the Fodor book as well as Rick Steves book on Provence. Rick Steves is generally the best but it doesnt have much about Aix, so we are using Fodors. They have a walking tour idea so we meander along with some purpose. This is a very sophisticated and cultured town, a bit of a waste on us.. The streets are interesting, lively and every corner has a surprise. We haven't done any shopping yet and Barbie spent time convincing me to buy a bright purple Lacoste shirt which I just couldn't settle on.

She reached her shopping stride in a lovely magazin (shop) called Cotelac where she spent an hour being well looked after by the staff and actually bought 2 items. She's now speaking and wearing french.

I missed the perfect photo opp when I saw a woman on crutches with a broken leg and what did she have on the good leg - 4 inch stilettos - only in France.

We made our way outside the main town to Cezannes home where he began his painting. His father was a banker and foreclosed on this huge house that became home. The gardens were massive with plane trees, lakes, statues - you get the idea. The tour was in some was a bit lame as the house was only open in one room. Tis room, however is where he painte a series of murals on the wall (later removed) where we had a talk which was pretty interesting and then given a tour of the back yard to see the vantage point for various of his famous paintings.

Lots of wandering before our booked dinner at le Deux Garcon , famous since 1792 and a haunt of Cezannes. Great meal, I had Bulot which is a cute shellfish and Barbie had Squid and fennel salad. I then has lamb shoulder with pearl barley that was amazing.

We had some Texans next to us that made it a fun evening. I am getting to understand the aperetifs - Kir being say blackcurrent or peach in white wine and Kit Royal being same with champagne. Both a good way to start the meal.

Another great thing at french restaurants is 500ml bottles for those of us who like an aperitif before and and afternoon drink before that.

Bulot (type of shellfish)

creme renversee - loovely

Goodbye Arles and off to Aix en Provence

Onions in hypermarche

Canal

view from lacoste

View from Lacoste

I am writing this 3 days after events as I have been quite sick with a type of flu and so by the time we get back to the room I am wiped out. Now am much better so will get you up to date.

Leaving our farm/villa in Arles was hard as it was just such a great place to stay, sort of decadent and luxurious at the same time. Our final dinner which I mentioned earlier was exceptional and the dessert I spoke of was Chocolat noir et genoise rhum-caramel, coulis caramel sale - best dessert ever..

Fix prix menus are popular and range in price from 15 euros for 3 courses upwards. I think to get a really good meal you need to spend 25 plus. The meal mentioned was 29 euros plus wine - wine being good value. Barbie seems to have a thing for french waiters which is embarrassing.

Our road trip to Aix was planned and first stop was l'isle sur la sorgue which was a super cute little town with this really strage canal running through. Strange insmuch as the water was unbelievably clean and there was all this very bright green water flora within. Other than that, it was a bit of a tourist trap village, tons of antique and cutesy type shops . Nice but time to move on.

Barbie with another frenchman

Next stop was Lacoste and on the way past the area where the book - A year in Provence was written. Lacoste is famous as it has the castle where Marquis de Sade lived. After a long climb, we entered the castle which is now owned by Pierre Cardin and the view was classic Provence and we read that this was Provences answer to Tuscany .

The French are really good with tourism, so far we have never felt ripped off and when we went to the restaurant below the castle, it was in that classic location you would expect crappy food and high prices to compensate for the magnificent position. But no, we ordered our regular Rose and I got boef tartare plus a lesson in how to put it together - so so good. A nice relax and on to Aix.

I was here 30 years ago and remembered a vibrant student town. We have a hotel in Mazarin area and an easy walk to main roundabout and Cours Miraboux, the main street.

I note at his point I had mainly been Barbies ventriloquist dummy - she would tell me the French and I would do all the actual talking. It has been working pretty well and since most converstation is transactional, we are getting less and less english back from the people we deal with. Now Barbie is in her stride and speaking french herself, we are feeling more comfortable.

My cough reached a crescendo today and I thought I was going to collapse walking around town but was saved by going in a bar and having a medicinal aperitif. I booked tickets to a tour of Cezannes house and his studio at the tourist centre then headed back to hotel and must have been feeling really sick to order room service for dinner.

Main roundabout at end of Cours Mirabou, Aix en Provence

van Gogh, rest day and dinner

Guinee fowl

My dessert

Barbies dessert

I have had a really bad cold bordering on flu - fevers, a dry cough that shakes the body and a really sore throat. I have been soldiering on and thats probably what has made it worse so took it easy in the morning before going out adventuring in Provence.

We are still staying at le mas de Florent in Arles and it is wonderful. It is slightly decadent, the owner Gilbert runs it in a relaxed french way and when guests stay for dinner, as we have once, it is like a huge family feast as the owner and his friends join in.

After dinner there are lots of places to sit around and each night there are people around who just stay up outside to talk etc.

Arles is the epicentre of all things van Gogh and it was here he took a knife to his ear, we took a drive not far away to the sanitarium (Cloitre Saint Paul de Mausone) where he spent a year of his life. He also painted the sunflowers and fields of lavenders . All paintings have endeed up elsewhere. Beautiful grounds and buildings, it is next to roman ruins that Barbie said date to 10 AD which I am a bit doubtful about. Arles has a great representation if Roman stuff including a central arena, an aqueduct and a huge music/entertainment area all from about the 10th century.

Temperature on car thermometer was 43.5 when we got in but once we got going it was only 39.5! Yeah, so it's hot and dry here. The last couple of days we haven't had the mistral that Provence is famous for.

Dinner was in Arles and was recommended by a local - the desert was possibly the best I have ever had. Rest of dinner was fantastic the only problem was the restaurant was really hot.

Noticed in the bushes - up high on rock

Cloitre Saint Paul

sunflowers

Roman - les antiques de Glanum - Triumphal Arch and Julius Mausoleum